Monday, October 4, 2010
The Rapture of Maison Martin Margiela
The loyal fans of Maison Martin Margiela can rejoice again this time around. After a well rounded (no pun intended)collection from fall/winter '10, the design team is already starting to grab a hold of the reins and put avant-garde back on the map. Slowly, but surely. For spring/summer '11, they delivered a seemingly two dimensional collection that appears flat to the front, but radically squared off at shoulders, easily flowing in the back to contour the shape of the body. Extreme trompe l'oeil? Yes. Maybe it's a philosophical idea? One can only look at the front, but become totally unaware at the other side. Reference to how the Maison functions? We'll just let the clothes speak for themselves.
The catch this time: men's wardrobe better suited on women. That was the selling point, quite frankly, the only point. Blazers, trench coats, trousers and button ups are colored in the traditional Margiela code: black, nudes, greys, pale cerulean, and burning fuchsia, stretched over a cardboard form. Dresses become permanently embedded in the process (a cue in the history of Maison). The last several looks did require a second glance to what appears to be a model, vacuumed between stiff leather Hefty bags.
But real question remains: what will be on the shelves when the collection hit the retail stores? Rest assured, all this will evolve in the near future.